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Solar Powered Stirling Cycle Engine

Stirling Engine Powered by Fresnel LensConcentrated Solar Power

Hi Gang! As promised, I tried out my Stirling engine with my fresnel lens, basically powering it with concentrated solar power. And as you'll see, it worked very well. For those not familiar with fresnel lenses, they take a large area of sunlight, in this case 2 feet by 4 feet, and focus, or concentrate it down to a smaller area. I wanted to keep my Stirling engine upright so that I could spray water onto its top plate. So before the sunlight got too focused, I intercepted it with this mirror and reflected it up onto bottom of the Stirling.

Engine's cylinder. I knew from the start that my fresnel lens doesn't focus too well, so that's why I built my Stirling engine with such a large diameter cylinder. And my cunning plan worked. To better show the parts, here's a bit of the assembly. Here's the fresnel lens by itself. I've attached a sunfinder to the side so I could make the fresnel lens point directly at the sun. Seeing this circle of light here tells me that it's in position. Then I attach the mirror. But first I turn it backwards to see what.

The concentrated sunlight looks like at that point. I want something squarish, that covers the middle of the mirror fairly well. I then turn the mirror back over to face the lens and use a clamp to hold it in place. Notice the use of welding goggles to protect my eyes. Looking at concentrated sunlight is like looking at more than one sun at the same time. I'm being careful not to reflect too much up here. I've already melted some of the frame there before. Next, to put the stand in place that will hold the Stirling engine.

And finally, the Stirling engine. To make sure the sunlight is being concentrated onto the cylinder, I look down into the big mirror. I want sunlight on the bottom of the big cylinder here, and not up here on the top plate. And here it is running. The purpose of this big steel top plate is to act as a heat sink. It takes the heat from the hot air in the big cylinder underneath and cools it. To help with the cooling I spray some water over the top plate.

Spraying water matters more indoors where I used an alcohol lamp to heat the big cylinder. The problem is that the hot fumes rise up the sides and heat the top plate too. But I found that the air movement outdoors made a huge difference on cooling. The outdoor air flowed over my big top plate, or heat sink, carrying the heat with it. Just as I'd hoped it would. I sprayed water anyway, but the top plate stayed relatively cool on its own, indefinitely. I also wanted to see if it would turn my homemade cooling fan.

And it did! It wasn't needed for outdoor cooling, but it served as a test load on the engine. Well, thanks for watching! See my channel, rimstarorg, for more tutorials like this. That includes one explaining how this Stirling engine works along with demonstrations of it running indoors. Another showing me assembling my fresnel lens support structure and mirror in more detail, and then using it as a solar cooker to fry some eggs for lunch. And one showing stepbystep how to make a simpler Stirling engine using a small tomato can for the cylinder.

Stirling Engine Explanation, Demos and Experimenting

Hi folks! This is another Stirling engine I made for experimenting with. I'll give a brief explanation of how it works followed by some demos, or experiments I did. And here's an animation of it in action. And here's a cutaway view. You can see the displacer moving up and down inside this cylinder, moving hot air from down here, to up here to be cooled, before moving that air back down again. There's also a hole here, between these two cylinders. When the air is heated, it expands, and pushes out on this diaphragm.

And likewise when the air is cooled, it's compressed and the diaphragm is pulled inward. So the displacer just moves air around. The expansion caused by the heating and the compression provided by the cooling is what moves the diaphragm, and through this rod, moves the crank shaft and makes the whole thing work. The flywheel just stores energy for the times between the expansion and the compression, to smooth out the movement. It took a little while to get heated up and running the first time. When it did, it wasn't very fast.

Notice when I go in close that you can see smoke coming out of this support tube, probably a coating inside melting off. So I put some grease into the tube, to block it a bit while still allowing the rod to move easily through it. And that made it move a little faster. But then I decided to pour some water over the top plate. That's to help with the cooling when the displacer moves the air in the cylinder to just under the top plate. As you can see, there was a big speed increase.

I then decided to add grease everywhere else too. And everything seemed to run more smoothly, and maybe a bit faster. I'd also built in a homemade pressure release valve. That's in case the pressure was too high. I gradually opened it up and didn't see any difference, until it was open too much and the whole thing stopped. I next wanted to see if a lighter flywheel would help. So I removed the flywheel and weighed it. It was around 150 grams. I also weighed a single CD and it was around 15 grams, one tenth as much.

So I hot glued a stack of 5 CDs to the bushing. That's half the weight of the wooden flywheel I started out with. The difference was small so it's hard to say, but I think there was an improvement. It was easy enough to remove three CDs and tape them out of the way on the wooden support without interfering with the shaft. That left just 2 CDs. But this time I didn't see any improvement. And lastly, the top plate was getting hot much too soon. That caused there to be no more cooling on top and the whole thing would stop.

Only after a minute or so. So I made this fan out of cardboard. It's not the ideal solution but definitely a fun one. I designed it to blow air down onto the cooling plate. As you can see from the tissue paper, it does blow air. And it did take longer, at least a few minutes before the top plate got too hot and the whole thing stopped. Anyway, that's some of the fun I've had with this Stirling engine. Well, thanks for watching! See my channel, rimstarorg, for more tutorials like this.

Andrew Halls Stirling Engine Boat

.that bit should be hot you can run a mechanical pump on the engine but it only pumps when the engine's running I quite like to get the cooling going before there's any heat around so I've got a very small electrical pump in the seacock over there but I've got the water flowing and I will now check everything is off to start with I've got some pressure I shall turn the gas on at the source I've got a bit of crosswind at the moment so my little lighter might get blown out.

But I shall try and get a flame oh, I've got a flame eh, that was well behaved sometimes they go pop have I got a flame I think I've got a flame But I can't see anything. it's ignited this one is usually the one that misbehaves and it pops like that I've got a flame. Hooray! And that just acts as a cooker, does it Yes, it is a gas hob I've got three of them and, um life is less busy if you've only got one of them.

Stirling Engine 5 HP High Power 2

The ST5 was designed for those who cannot get grid electricity easily and economically. or those that realize the uncertainty of total oil dependence or total utlility dependence. The ST5 is a rugged design producing over 5 hp. Virtually any combustible material is a fuel. Wood pellets, husks, chaff, peanut shells, weeds hay, cotton waste, other agrobyproducts, natural gas. The engine uses a blower operated by the ST5 itself. Before the engine can be started, however the blower needs to be operated for 10 minutes either by a battery or by hand cranking.

Stirling Engine Not Free Energy Make Science Fun

G'day, I'm Jacob from Make Science Fun. Thanks for joining me today. Here I am standing on a stirling engine. All you do is add some ice, give it a little spin and voila. No batteries, no electricity. Look at it go! It is almost like free energy! It is running on an ice cube. The top of the stirling engine is freezing cold, the bottom is warm because there is a temperature difference, the air inside expands and contracts, which drives a piston, which drives this big wheel! How awesome is that.


This is very very important stirling engine and this one has been designed by subir bhaduri. you can see there is a little wooden stand, and these are the various parts of the stirling engine. this is the box stand on which this engine will be mounted. you can see a vertical screw and on this screw you screw in the nut on which there is a heat sink. this heat sink has got a central bore. right side is where you will put in the lamp. and then you take.

The flywheel and crank rod and you screw it in the heat sink. this is the crank part. then you take a connecting rod and screw it to the crank and you just let it hang around. then you take the long piston and there is a small displacer which is made from mseal. you put this long tube in the bore of the heat sink. then lift the crank rod and put it in the displacer. we need another crank. there is another crank which is phased out at 90 degrees and now you connect the crank rod to the long tube. finally you take the.

Flywheel and tighten the screw of the flywheel to the axle so it is solidly connected to it. now the stirling engine is almost assembled. you have got to ensure that the displacer and the piston rotate smoothly. you need to oil them. finally take a spirit lamp and heat the right rod. red part is actually ceramic to insulate. then you kick start the flywheel and you will be surprised that this engine keeps rotating. it will keep rotating till the fuel lasts. its a heat engine and quite a beauty to behold. you can see the con rods,.

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