So heres how to make a 5 volt power supply what you need is an old phone charger whos output is between 5 to 24 volts a 7805 voltage regulator ,a 10 Micro farad capacitor and a couple of wires. Here's how the regulator works you have 3 pins the left pin is supposed to go to the input the Middle one goes to the ground and the right one goes to the output when you lay it flat so the left one you can have a voltage between 5 and 24 volts.
And at the right pin you're gonna get an output of 5 volts if youre using anything around nine volts your voltage regulator is going be cutting the voltage down so it's gonna get quite hot so make sure you dont touch it. Since the left side is the input, Youre gonna have to connect the OP of the phone charger to this. The voltage regulation produces a slight sawtooth output so we're going to connect a capacitor of 10 micro Farad across the output. The longer pin of the capacitor is generally the.
Positive end so the longer pin is gonna be connected to th right side of the regulator use 2 pieces of sticky tape to hold them in place while you do the soldering. Make sure not to touch the regulator because its gonna get really hot and it will stay hot upto 5 minutes after soldering the DC adapter should have two wires the lighter one is generally the positive one but you should check it with a multimeter just to be sure were gonna solder the lighter wire to the left pin of the regulator.
And the darker one to the centre. Spread the tips of the regulator for easier soldering. Tie two wires across the capacitor which will be your output. Solder these in place Once again, don't touch the regulator right after soldering because it can stay hot for a while. After soldering fold the capacitor upwards to make it more compact. Using insulation tape wrap all the exposed connections. When you're done you should have something that looks like this and if you measure the voltage output you should get between 4.9 to 5.1 volts.
Universal Cell Phone Battery Charger Review Overview By AccessoryGeeks
Hey guys john here with accessorygeeks. And you may be wondering why I'm zoomed in the power outlet. Well it's to go over this new product of ours which is here Universal battery charger. Now a lot of you might be used to the one we carry before that just have a little lights There're flash whether it's charging or not. And I know that confuse a couple, so we bought this new LCD one which is extremely easy to use and I'm gonna ahead and demo it As you can see it has two prongs that you're gonna connect to your positive and negative on your battery.
And you're gonna go and connect battery here and I'm plug it into the powerlet. For the purpose of the tutorial I'm gonna use this blackberry dx one battery. As you can see it already tells me the negative and the positive So I'm gonna ahead and put it here and go ahead and connect it Here we go and then put that on the positive Put it down, and as you can see it's connected properly now if I was to do it to a different contact points I'm gonna move it up. That would not light up.
So that's how you figure out if it's ready to charge or not So there we go correct contact point. Awesome. now I'm gonna go ahead and plug it in. Now I'll zoom in to show you guys that it's charging. And as you can see there's a little light right there, means that it's charging. So that's pretty much it. This is universal battery charger. It's gonna work with pretty much any cell phone battery. And that fits in here and how it's contact point. It's not gonna be limited to cell phone batteries.
Power Products CA 1550 Battery ChargerAnalyzer Military Version
Here's the military version of our CA 1550 It's a full function charger 025 amp, fully adjustable It will charge any 12 or 24 volt Lead Acid or NiCad battery As well as a full function discharge analyzer that will discharge it up to 50 amps For also 12 or 24 volt Lead Acid or Nicad batteries Simple to use, full range Total control of your charge and discharge rates and your discharge cutoff This unit has a builtin amp hour meter that works on both the charge and discharge side.
It's a ruggedized unit It has water resistant components It has multiple test points for verifying voltage and current It comes with a number of adapters This is a heatplate that would actually go under a battery Just in case you have a battery with an internal short or a problem The unit comes with an aircraft battery connector as well as a number of other connectors one being the F18 adapter Of course, AC line cord and cable Everything is modular it can snap in and out There are multiple connectors available.
Universal Battery Charger
Hi, today we'll be showing you how to use our Universal Battery Charger. And today we'll be using a cell phone battery. In order to show you the functions of our Universal Battery Charger. And keep it mind that this battery charger iss not just for cell phone batteries. It's for digital cameras or any other device that utilizes this type of access point. And let's get started. Okay, the first thing that you'll have to do is make sure the prongs. As you can see right here, are in correct position.
And how you'll correct these prongs. As you can see the access point to this battery will be right in this area. So all we have to do is align these two prongs in the proper position. So that they are touching the proper access points of the battery. And when it's indicated that these prongs has touched the access points and it's ready to charge. What it will do, is there'll be two lights, that will show. And this is to show that its hitting the proper access points, and this is to show that the battery charge is full.
And what we want to set it to, is that, as you can see the switch. That is right here, you'll want to turn this switch on. And when there is one red light showing, on the universal battery charger. This is to show that the battery is ready to charge. And our next step will be is, we will plug the universal battery charger into the wall. Okay, and our next step, as you can see the red lights are showing, and the battery is ready to charge. And we'll be plugging in our universal battery charger into an outlet.
Generate Electricity with Peltier Module The Seebeck Effect
Hi Gang! I'm going to show how I used this Peltier module, and some cold and hot water to generate electricity. Here this LED is being brightly lit by it. I found my Peltier module in this hot and cold water dispenser. I opened up the back, removed the fan, and the heat sink. Stuck to the back of the heat sink was the Peltier module. How do you use it Apply heat to this side and cooling to this side, so that there's a temperature difference across the two sides.
When you do, electricity will be made to flow through the wires. This is called the Seebeck effect. You'll be generating electricity. Here's a very simple way to test it. I cut some short pieces of aluminum bars which I got from Home Depot. I clip them to either side of the Peltier module. I then get two plastic containers and put the aluminum bars in. I do it in such way that the aluminum in contact with one side of the Peltier module is in one container, and the aluminum in contact with the other.
Side of the module is in the other container. Next up is to measure how much voltage and current it can produce, with no load. I hook up a meter to the Peltier module. I then put cold water in this container, add a little ice, and put boiling water from a kettle in this container. By doing this, the heat from the hot water rises up this aluminum bar, through the Peltier module, and down this aluminum bar to the cold water. As the heat moves through the module, you can see the electrical current rises.
Switching to the voltage setting, you can see the voltage also rises. The highest current I see is around 143 milliamps and the highest voltage is around 854 millivolts. Around this point the cold side is still cool and the hot side is too hot to hold a finger on. Time to generate some electricity to power this LED. I first try by just connecting the LED. But even after putting in fresh cold water, ice, and hot water, and waiting a little, that isn't good enough to light this LED.
That's where this circuit comes in. It's called a joule thief circuit. Here it's being powered by a battery whose voltage is so low, it's considered dead. The joule thief stores up the power from the battery and once it's built up a bunch, it dumps it all at once into the LED in a quick, more powerful burst, enough to provide the needed voltage and current to light it up. And then it builds up some more and dumps it again. The LED is powered only during the powerful bursts, but it looks like it's always on.
So I connect the joule thief circuit to the Peltier module. I again put cold water, and ice, in one container and boiling hot water in the other. Sure enough, 12 seconds later, when enough heat has made its way up to the Peltier module, the Peltier module is generating enough electricity to light LED, with the help of the joule thief circuit. As time goes by more and more heat moves from the hot water to the cold water, warming the cold side and cooling the hot side. And after 15 minutes and 21 seconds.
The Peltier module no longer puts out enough voltage and current, and the LED no longer lights up. One last thing. The Peltier module I found in the water dispenser is a TEC type, a Thermoelectric Cooler, designed for cooling, not generating electricity. It can handle only up to around 100 to 110 celsius or 212 to 230 fahrenheit before being damaged. For serious electricity generation you'll want a TEG type, a Thermoelecrtic Generator. They can handle up to 200 to 300 celsius or 400 to 500 fahrenheit and put out much more power.
Well, thanks for watching! See my channel, rimstarorg for more tutorials like this. That includes one where I use this same Peltier module, but in the opposite way, running electricity through it to freeze water and doing some efficiency testing. Another tutorial where I show stepbystep how to make the joule thief circuit I used to light the LED using a dead battery. And for variety, one about how fast an electron and electricity move down a wire. The slowness of the electron may surprise you. And don't forget to subscribe if you like these tutorials,.
My Amateur Radio Go Kit CC Available
Hi. My name is Chris. And I'm here to help you.Stay Connected. In this tutorial, I'm going to quickly show you my amateur radio emergency deployment kit. Its a bit of a mess of wires right now, but it does work pretty well. over here, I have a dual band radio and its connected into the Rig Runner 4004U which has a number of Anderson Powerpoles and 2 USB adapters that allow me to charge things like my phone an iPad, anything else that takes a micro USB slot. I also have a small USB LED light which I can plug into any night operation.
In the big black box I have a couple of sealed lead acid batteries that I use to power the system. There's also a small AC to DC converter the Powergate PG40S which connects the AC power supply and the battery backup. In the event the AC power were to fail it would automatically switch over to the battery backup. Over here, I have a 2 meter linear amplifier so I when I am running on 2 meters I can pump upwards of 50 watts out of a small handheld radio.
The thing I I find most important about an emergency kit is to be able to charge it when you are on the go. Thus, I have it set up for solar panels to charge the large battery. This specific solar panel pumps out about 30 watts in fully bright sunlight. And its able to charge this battery fairly quickly. While still a work in progress, I'm pretty happy with it doubles as both my home station as well as an emergency deployment kit if needed. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial checking out my amateur radio go kit. If you want to see.
How To Set Up A Solar Power 12 Volt Lightcharge Controllerled
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