How MPPT Solar Charge Controller Prevents Reverse Current Flow from Panels to Batteries SuKam
SuKam MPPTsolar charge controller. Right now, we are going to check PV reverse current input in the system. For this, we have connected the MPPT solar charge controller with 12V SuKam Bazooka tubular battery. For solar voltage, we have connected MPPT with PV supply. We have connected a multimeter to the battery to check the battery voltage. In the evening, when input voltage from PV becomes less than the battery voltage, in that condition, reverse current starts flowing from battery to PV. In order to stop that, SuKam has provided PV reverse current protection in MPPT solar charge controller and we are checking that.
Comparing Midnite Solar Classic MPPT solar charge controllers
Hi, I'm Amy from the altE Store. We're going to take a look at the Midnite Solar Classic MPPT solar charge controller family. There are 9 models, easiest to describe divided into two criteria, voltage and current range, and feature set. All models are made right here in America. The Classic is available in a 150V DC 96A, 200V 79A, and 250V 63A model. I have here a sampling of the models, the Classic 250, Classic SL150, and Classic Lite 200. All models will charge battery banks from 12V to 72V. The whole Classic Line has MidNite's HyperVOC feature which extends high voltage.
Input limits when needed. With HyperVOC, because the voltage of silicon solar panels goes up when it gets cold, if it happens to get colder than you designed for, and the voltage of your solar array goes higher than is safe for the Midnite Classic charge controller, instead of getting damaged from the high voltage like other charge controllers would, it will put itself into a nonoperational self protect mode until the panels warm up and the voltage drops back into the safe range. Within each of those voltage and current ranges,.
There are also 3 levels of features available. They are like the Goldilocks and the 3 bears of charge controllers. The Classic is their full featured model. It has Solar, wind and hydro maximum power point tracking modes. It has a display for configuring and monitoring your system and push button programming. It's got ethernet capabilities to remotely monitor and configure your charge controller, and datalogging capabilities. The Classic also has Ground Fault Protection and is one of the few charge controllers in the industry to have Arc fault protection. The Classic Lite is a stripped down version.
Of the Classic. It can also be used for solar, wind, or hydro. But instead of the graphical display screen for viewing and programing, it has an LED indicator panel with DIP switches. The Classic Lite also comes with the free full featured software to allow you to program, log and monitor the Classic via a PC or ethernet. It does have ground fault protection, but does not have arc fault protection. The lite is a perfect solution when you have 2 or more Classics in the system, one can be the full featured Classic, and the others can be the.
Lite, since only one of the Classics in the system needs to have the meter to monitor the entire system. It also is a great solution if you are using the remote display, so you can monitor your system from your living space, while the charge controller is in the utility room. The newest Classic SL is juuuust right in the middle.It does not have wind or hydro capabilities. It is a simplified solar only version of the Classic with streamlined menus. The Classic SL has the graphics panel and ground fault but no arc fault or Ethernet capabilities.
This is the perfect charge controller for you if you have a solar system that you do not need arc fault protection or remote monitoring from a PC or the internet,or, you have multiple Classics, and only need the ethernet on one of them to remotely monitor the system. I hope this helped you understand how to choose the right Midnite Classic for you. Please like and share this tutorial, and subscribe to our altestore channel so we can notify you of new tutorials. Also go to our website at altestore where we have been making renewable doable.
How to Install Solar Panels Wiring Fuses to Solar Panel DC Side
Alright, now we're ready to wire up our fuses and charge controller on the solar panel DC side. We've got our charge controller ready to go, we're just going to slip our BX wire, which I've actually insulated one of the tips, here, so we don't spark our machine. We'll feed that wire through a strainer leaf and put another little strainer leafer, here, on our BX. Tighten that up a bit. So you can see with that little spark there, that we do have power and we should use some.
Kind of fusing in here just so, if something goes wrong and the fuse blows out instead of the electronics. So, we've got a standard car fuse, this one's rated 40 amps at 32 volts. Really, all we need is about a 15 amp fuse, here, but this should give us some measure of protection. We're going to wire this through on the positive side. We've got a fuse holder that matches our fuse, and we'll just strip off a little bit of this insulation here. We'll form a little edge, a crimp, on this so it will loop under our device nicely. Got.
Screw terminals, here, and we're just going to slip that positive wire right under one of our terminals. In a larger installation this will be done in a separate box, but for a small one, this should be fine. Now, we need to run the other side of the positive wire to our charge controller and we need a little piece of wire for that. So now we've got our little jumper wire ready to go, we're going to strip that off and connect it to the other side of our fuse. Demo So.
HOW TO KEEP CAR BATTERY HEALTHY AND CHARGED WITH SOLAR CELLS AUTO RAM TRUCK BAT POWER CHARGER
Hi everyone, this is geRAMicc85 and today i want to show you the new solar cells on my Dodge Ram 1500. I haven't been driving a lot with my truck over the last long and cold winter and I guess that's why my car battery died. Now, the battery was only 3.5 years old and I didn't want to replace it already but I had to. So I decided to do something to increase the lifespan of the new battery. I mounted tree 12 Volts epoxy resin solar cells onto the truck bed cover. I used silicone to glue them on securely. The cells are only.
A few millimeters think so that I can still open the Bak Flip cover without hitting the cells. I had to drill two small holes for the positive and negative wires. The wires run underneath the folding cover into the corner of the truck bed. The maximum output of the cells is 0.4 Amps. So whenever the battery is not fully charged or for example the radio is used with the engine off, the solar cells will fill the battery back up and provide it with a good maintenance charge. From the truck bed the wires run underneath.
The truck to the front into the engine compartment. I installed a charging regulator right next to the new battery which keeps the power from flowing backwords and also avoids overcharging the battery. The regulator has two LED indicators, one for charging and one for battery full. The green one is on right now showing that the battery is fully charged. The new battery that I've got is a 100 Amp hours car battery from Battery Industry Germany. It was the biggest battery that I could find that would fit into the spot. Thank you very much for.
PT 100 MPPT Charge Controller by Magnum Unboxing Features
Hi this is Amy from the altE store. We're going to do a quick unboxing of the Magnum Dimensions PT 100. This is the first 100A MPPT charge controller on the market very exciting. So let's take a look at what comes with it. So we have got a 6' network communications cable, a 6' extension cable, in case you need to go more than the 6'. The battery temperature sensor very nice to have because it does temperature compensation for your charging, so it's really good to have an accurate reading of the battery temperature so that it can adjust. It's.
Got a ground fault warning label, which is required by National Electric Code and the mounting screws to mount onto the back plate. Now this back plate is nice, it actually will mount right onto the wall and then the charge controller will mount on to it. So let's take a look at how that works out. And we've got the nice manual always read your manual! So let's take a look. Ooo! So, this is a 100A charge controller you can put up to 6600 watts into it. Now, take a look at.
This really nice design and we were talking about the mount for it. So you can see it's just going to mount right onto here and it gives you a nice air flow for taking care of the heat. So it does have two fans internal, as well as with this nice air flow, helps keep it really cool when its managing those hundred amps so the front of it very nice it's managing those 100 amps. So the front of it very nice. It's a nice simple design here.
We've got the LED display that shows the PV array, volts in, and kilowatts. It's got the battery bank, volts and amps. And then it gives you a couple of LED indications of what stage it's in. You've got your bulk, absorb, and float charging. You've got a fault indicator and then auxiliary if if something is using the auxiliary port. Then you've just got two buttons, one to select the feature, one to reset and then two if you're going to do equalization on flooded batteries. So it does have nice knock outs for you to get your cables in and out. And this bottom.
Part comes right off so that you've got all of your wiring right down here and this all stays up in place. So really nice, it actually has both arc fault and ground fault protection so you've got a really nice safe install. Nice thing about it is a lot of charge controllers, MPPT charge controllers, only go up to 150 volts temperature compensated. This will actually go up to 187 volts. So what that lets you do is you can actually put three 24 volt panels in series going into this, or four 20 volt panels. So that's more than what you can.
Morningstar TriStar MPPT 600V Charge Controller Overview with Morningstar Corp
Amy Hi I'm Amy from the altE Store. I'm here with Jake and Kyle from Morningstar Corporation. Hi gentlemen. Jake Hello Hello Kyle Good to be here. Amy So we are going to talk about the Morningstar TriStar MPPT 600 volt charge controller. Kyle That's a mouthful. Amy It is. So tell me about the different models that are available. Jake Sure, well this branch, or this family started out as a pure off grid charge controller 600 volt MPPT. In its purest form it's just a charge controller, you can also get it with a disconnect box.
For code compliance in the US, the NEC code requirements to disconnect the PV. That will suit the bill there. And we also have it available with the transfer switch variation, and that is suitable for retrofitting existing grid tie systems for battery backup. All of them come available with a GFPD, Kyle can tell you a little bit more about the GFPD and how it functions. Kyle Sure, when we built the 600 volt platform, we realized that there weren't many commercially available options for DC rated 600 volt rated ground fault protection,.
So we decided just to build one on our own. Mainly it's a sensor that works in much the same way as AFCI would, where it detects a current imbalance so that if there is some kind of leakage current to ground creating an unsafe condition, the sensor will trip both poles of the PV array to leave the array in a safe position, so that the system can be worked on safely. Amy And that's an optional add on, that doesn't come built in. Kyle Exactly, you can buy it separately, there is a prewired option, one single SKU that.
Comprises of the transfer switch version with the GFPD, but it is also sold separately. Amy And so just give me a quick overview of why a 600 volt charge controller Jake Well the 600 volt is proven efficiency, it's sort of the standard for high voltage arrays now to allow for longer wire runs. You can reduce component costs in just the wiring, reducing the cost with being able to use smaller gauge copper wire. That can add up to substantial cost savings there. Amy Absolutely Jake It's the preferred way to do things on the.
World standard right now. Amy Right, right, and then as you said, with the transfer switch model being able to retrofit a grid tie system, the grid tie systems these days tend to be 600 volts anyways, so it's an easy switch. Kyle Easy retrofit. With special electricians and installers used to working with that voltage, this is just another component in the system. There's no rewiring of the array required. And that's really the key, is that this is intended to be a simple retrofit for those grid tie systems to add batteries. And then.
Morningstar SunSaver 6 Charge Controller
Hi my name is Isaac and I'm with Wholesale Solar and I have here a SunSaver 6 Amp Charge Controller from Morningstar. This charge controller is one of the most basic units you can buy. It's great for a small 12 Volt system. It uses a single solar panel. It's very easy to connect. All you do is run a positive and negative in to the charge controller. and a positive and negative out to your battery. It also has a DC load control option for low voltage disconnect so you don't damage your battery either from overcharging it.
Simple solar panel setup to power a trolling motor
Hi everybody, it's Steve. I want to show you real quick the solar setup I've got here on the pontoon. I was tired of bringing down shore power and a battery charger every time I wanted to charge the twelve volt battery, the marine battery, I use for the trolling motor. So I came up with an option here of a solar panel and charge controller. and I went ahead and mounted the panel up on the rail made a couple brackets to mount it on the rail, or I can pitch it up on an angle if I want to get better solar exposure,.
Or if I want to get it up and out of the way, just hang it up on the back rail, faces south all the time, constantly charges and tops the battery. The battery that we are running is a marine grade deep cycle battery. and we're wired into our charge controller. I'm going to be mounting a box up here. a weather proof box with some ventilation up here. and get the battery back on the outside, so it frees up all this floor space. for the time being, I'll keep the battery is in the box,.
And keep the charge control protected, not sure if you can see. that or not, we've got a red light which tells us we're charging and connected to the panel. and the solid light which tells us it's charging the battery right now, as I speak. I also have a battery indicator LED that's kind of hard to read, which tells us the percentage of battery charge. This charge controller here, PWM charge controller will go ahead and float. when it gets full, so it won't over charge that battery. I also keep in here a small battery tester, which I.
Will go ahead and disconnect my leads.. and check my battery. and I'm sitting full with thirteen volts right now. now it's flashing because it's floating, because I have it disconnected I'll go ahead and reconnect it. and thirteen point zero, because it's full. This is an old battery that hasn't been treated very well over the years. I'll go ahead and put this in a weather tight compartment with some ventilation around the bottom. the bottom, of this high quality bucket. covered with a brick. For the time being, that works just great.
I haven't had to hook to shore power in over a month and a half. For just around sixty or seventy dollars US on eBay. This came with a sixty watt panel, plus the charge controller, plus the cables for under seventy dollars delivered. I can't beat that with a stick! I just wanted to show you that real quick and thanks for watching! If you like this tutorial, please subscribe to the channel and give it a thumbs up , also, please! I'm also going to have more info in a blog post on enjoytimeoutdoors.
How to Install Solar Panels Battery Banks for Solar Energy
Now we come to our battery bank for our Solar system. This one is made up of six volt cells combined in different ways to get the voltage we need for our individual inverters. We're going to be using the big Zantrax 1,000 watt this time, so we'll need two six volt cells, in series, to come up with that twelve volts. If you take your battery and connect a positive to a negative terminal that leaves you with a positive and negative terminal and you can get your twelve volts here. If you connect four batteries in series, positive to negative,.
You come up with twentyfour volts. And if you needed a fortyeight volt system, which is not uncommon, you'd simply expand and use more batteries. But for a twelve volt system we'll just use two. And, they're really the most dangerous part of the system. If you look down inside there, you can see a liquid and that liquid is sulfuric acid and will really seriously burn you and that's why we have a base here, Baking Soda, and if you get that acid in your eyes or in your clothing you can neutralize it with this. So, very.
Important to have this for safety. We can get a look at some of that acid here with the hydrometer, this is what you measure the actual specific gravity of the acid inside. And you can see we have several of these disks floating. We have about three disks floating with one at the bottom. So we know that this two batteries, or at least this battery, is about seventyfive percent charged. So, we're going to be very careful with that acid and stick this back here in our little cup. It's also important to note that the gases that.
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